I took some pictures of the projector projecting on 3 different types of materials. I’m using a Casio XJ-S30 Projector which has 2000 lumens and 1800:1 contrast.
The following images consist of Rosco Grey Projection Screen (left), tracing paper (middle), and Rosco Black Projection Screen (right).

Here’s one picture with the lights on with Rosco Black (left), and Rosco Grey (right). In the picture the Rosco Black may look slightly better, but in person the Rosco Grey is the clear winner.

It’s really hard to get an …

Rosco Projection screen is an inexpensive projection screen that seems to give pretty good results. There’s a few places online you can buy it. I ended up purchasing it from rosebrand.com. All places sell by the yard and the the minimum size is 55″ by 1 yard. The price is $15 per yard at 55″ width. I ended up buying both the Rosco Black and Rosco Grey to see which would work best with my setup.

Screen comes packaged on a roll.

Rosco Grey on the roll and Rosco Black on …

I contemplated making my own PCB boards for the LEDs, but after doing some searching I found some boards online that would be more cost effective and work better than making my own boards. I decided to buy the following board from futurlec.com It’s possible to get 4 individual strips from each board for making individual LED PCBs. I needed a total of 10 strips for the two sides of my acrylic so I purchased 3 boards for $9.50. The strips are good because they will allow for 4-8 LEDs …

I went to home depot and picked out some wood that would be good enough for the inside framing of the table. I tried to get something light weight and sturdy. The main reasons for the frame is to keep the table sturdy and also make it so the walls of the table will be square, flush, and have something to screw into. I measured out all the pieces in google sketchup and then had someone at home depot cut the pieces to size.

Sketchup Top View

Sketchup Bottom View

Wood …

From the Google sketchup file I created, I measured and fabricated the top frame that will hold the LEDs, acrylic, silicone (compliant surface), and projection layer. The top frame consists of two pieces; the top piece, which will fit the acrylic (in the center), along with the silicone rubber and projection material on top, and also the infrared LEDs alongside the acrylic and the bottom piece that will screw into the top piece and rest on top of the final box.

Top piece (left) and bottom piece (right)
…

Thanks to Adi, Deej, and Muhneer I now have video footage of my current applications running on a finished multi-touch display. Now I have an idea how the applications look on a finished display and what kind of changes may be needed.

Well, after posting yesterday I realized there was a major bug in the program; nothing that would crash anyone’s computer, just a functionality problem. So I fixed this and also made it so you can drag new squares directly from the sidebar instead of having to press on them and then seeing the new square on stage.
Now everything works as expected and is a lot of fun! I can’t wait to add more sounds and functionality!
You can find the newest updates on the “My Software” page.

Well, I’ve made some additions, some changes and came up with an overall complete version of Musical Squares. Complete does not mean finished though, expect massive updates and much more functionality. This version is good enough to be called “Version 1″ I would say.
In this version, I changed the 8 original notes to 5 notes (pentatonic scale) with 3 percussive tones. It sounds…well..interesting. I also added the ability to remove squares by dragging them outside the main stage and adding new squares by pressing on the colored squares on either …

Well, Musical Squares isn’t anything like Musical Chairs, but it’s fun nonetheless. Who wouldn’t like throwing around objects that emit tones (sounds) when they hit each other?
I started working on this second music program as an aim to explore other musical possibilities. Right now there’s not too much functionality, and it’s a basic proof-of-concept as there isn’t much practical application for it yet. It’s based off another existing (single touch) online program called “Pianolina” that I hope to improve and build off of. The most recognized aspect between the original …

MultiKey is a simple multi-user, multi-touch music application. In the standard version, there are two music keyboards. One is a full octave, while the other is two full octaves. By pressing on the white border, the individual keyboard will switch into move/rotate/scale mode and can be rotated and resized to your liking. Press on the white border again, and move/rotate/scale will be turned off. Have fun!
MultiKey v1.3

Possible Future Changes/Additions/Bug Fixes:
-Ability to change to different sound library
-Ability to add (drag out) multiple keyboards. Idea: use a gesture that is …

After waiting about 20 hours and letting the silicone rubber cure overnight, I went ahead and “unmasked” the silicone to see how it curred. From the look of it, it cured quite nicely. It isn’t completely even as far as the whole thing being completely smooth and 1mm thick, but this really shouldn’t affect it’s performance. After further inspection, I found that there were no bubbles in the silicone! Bubbles are one of the main concerns when pouring silicone yourself. I think my success had to do with mixing the …

Well, the silicone arrived today. It took 5 days from the time of ordering online. I’ve done a lot of research, talking to others that have poured silicone and watched a couple videos so I was prepared for what I needed to do.
The best video to date is from Blaxwan and it really provides great documentation and information on how to pour the silicone.
[youtube="http://youtube.com/watch?v=bnjeWbvVCCo"]
Here are a couple things not mentioned in the video that I would like to add:
1) Make sure that you read the directions carefully on the package.
2) …